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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.